inoteca on the Lower East Side-Wine Bar & Small Plate Haven

Being a big fan of Italian wine bars, I was interested in the buzz generated by ‘inoteca, in particular the legendary waits required to get a table. The product of Batali alums from Otto, Lupa, and the former ‘Ino, ‘inoteca was to outdo their predecessors, and bring the Batali esthetic to the Lower East Side.

The Good

A major factor at ‘inoteca is the people – everyone, from the hostess who worked to accommodate us, to the waiters who brought us wine and bread during our wait, to the waitress who attended us during our meal, were understated, enthusiastic, pleasant, knowledgeable, and prompt. Similar to something that I noticed at every Batali restaurant is that everyone involved really seems to enjoy being there. This was equally true at ‘inoteca, and made the experience far more enjoyable.

I must also mention a few standouts from our experience there:

• The Truffle Egg Toast
• The Cheese Plate
• The Wine List

The Truffle Egg Toast, something of a signature dish (and you’ll always want to get the signature dish, anywhere you go- more on that later) for the restaurant, is a fairly modest and understated pairing of simple ingredients, which come out perfectly. Thick-cut Italian bread is graced with Fontina cheese, a fried egg, and Truffle oil. That’s it. However, in practice, the effect is sublime. Equal parts crunchy, velvety, and earthy, it is comfort food of the highest order. Equally amazing was the fact that it arrived at the table, perfectly done, despite a packed house and extremely busy staff. Well-deserved kudos are in order.

The Cheese Plate at ‘inoteca is a simpler and less expensive affair than at anywhere else where temples to cheese have sprouted around the City. There are no jams, marmalades, or compotes to accompany the cheeses. They are simply perfectly aged, sliced, and presented at the perfect temperature.

Drinking wine at ‘inoteca is a different experience from other restaurants, partly because the small list, expertly chosen, emphasizes an array of Italian wines that are as far off the beaten path as can be found.

While we relied on the classic Nero d’Avola, and the Rosso Conero, there are a number of unusual wines that await the adventurous palate. Ask for recommendations from your server, depending on your tastes, and accompanying food choices.

The Not So Good

We ordered a number of other items, including the Baby Rucola (arugula) salad, the Eggplant Lasagna, and the Polenta with Zucchine, Tomatoes, and Pancetta. Honestly speaking, while they were OK, they didn’t tread any territory that you wouldn’t have been able to get to by going to the far more modest (in every sense) Max.

The Final Verdict

In practice, while the place features rich wood, an inviting, cozy space, a prime corner vantage point on the Lower East Side mayhem, and a capable, welcoming staff, the overall dining experience can’t hold a candle to Otto, its spiritual big brother in the wine, cheese & sliced meats-small plate venue.

Have you been to ‘inoteca? Had a great wine I missed? Had a great meal with some items on the menu I overlooked? Please let me know below…

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