Christopher Hitchens Attacks Wine Waiter Rudeness
06/03/2008 
4 Comments
Christopher Hitchens, (quite a ringer for Andrew Lloyd Webber, isn’t he?) who has famously railed at religion in his recent book “God is Not Great,” has now sharpened his claws to move in on an equally formidable foe – the wine waiter. You know the type – the one who pushes the spoofed Brunellos going for $150+ on the wine list, only to histrionically groan and sneer derisively when one chooses a simple Nero d’Avola in the over-priced $45 price range. (I’m talking to you, “La Pizza Fresca” wine guy.)
The outrage doesn’t end there, and this is precisely what makes Hitchens so greatly incensed. These pushy waiters think nothing of reaching in front of any diner, at any point in the meal, and pouring hefty pours all around. Perhaps this is done to be appear to be helpful, although to Hitchens, this is the height of impoliteness. The waiter, clearly hoping to drain the bottle, and add another to the overall, is transparently trying to “pad” the final tally, and, their tip.
The vile practice of butting in and pouring wine without being asked is the very height of the second kind of bad manners. Not only is it a breathtaking act of rudeness in itself, but it conveys a none-too-subtle and mercenary message: Hurry up and order another bottle.
Having eaten in many New York restaurants, I can attest to the accuracy of Hitchens’ observations, as wryly put as they are. He attributes this “rudeness” and “bullying” to the “mystification” that normally surrounds wine. Waiters take advantage of normal diner’s lack of familiarity with the rituals surrounding wine, making them feel uncultured our unintelligent if they object to this rough treatment. He rounds out the piece by providing the antidote to this kind of treatment: Polite, but firm insistence on pouring for one’s self & one’s dining companions.
While not always a problem, this is definitely accepted practice at all echelons of restaurants. If there’s anything to be gained from these pages, it’s that wine & food don’t need to be intimidating or fussy – guided by your own inclinations and tastes, and by a continual education, one learns to find one’s own style and preferences at the table and in the glass.
So what do you think? Have you run into this kind of treatment recently? Do you mind as much as Mr. Hitchens? Let me know in your comments below!
This piece was also well covered and commented upon by my colleagues:
- Michael at the Food and Wine Blog
- The Grinder on CHOW (who found nothing basically wrong with the practice)
- Ray Isle at Food & Wine’s The Tasting Room, who found the piece… “an engaging corrective”
Popularity: 45% [?]
I was so happy to read this post because it’s close to my heart. As a past restaurant manager now banquet manager, I’ve seen both great and poor waiters that wouldn’t know good service it it fell on them. And yes, they think pouring wine is service but if they wouldn’t make extra money because of it it would not be done.
Visit my blog that compares banquet and restaurant waiters at:
http://soyouwanttobeabanquetmanager.blogspot.com/2008/05/restaurant-waiters-vs-banquet-waiters.html
http://soyouwanttobeabanquetmanager.blogspot.com
I think Hitchen’s post was a bit whiny. I don’t get bothered by poor wine service in that it’s not going to make or break my enjoyment of a meal. That said, I do appreciate good wine service and will give these restaurants preference and always express my gratitude to the server and manager for being great.
The best wine service I have experienced is from the most knowledgeable people (often sommeliers or people studying for the final tests) who combine their knowledge with a certain humility. The secret to moving high-ticket wine is to combine knowledge with the heart of a teacher/servant. This (usually) translates to helping the table make selections that suit their price and taste.If someone has a snobby table presence, they are compensating for their own sense of inadequacy, don’t complain about, just don’t spend your money at that restaurant.
Banquet Manager – Your professional perspective is welcome and informed; I enjoyed your linked post, which went into far more detail of the differences in wait staff style & temperament.
Michael – While getting dangerously close to whinyness, you really have to experience this sort of thing first hand in a New York restaurant to believe it.
Marco – Having enjoyed a few good bottles in some fine places together, I can agree with your assessment.